I should KonMari my
paint collection, not add to it. We go to workshops weighed down with too much
stuff.
| No, I don't need any more watercolor pigments. |
Many years ago, I took a workshop from a figure painter who
specified cadmium green. I came home with an unopened tube and dropped it in a
drawer. It’s still unopened.
I have great sympathy for students faced with a new supply list. In some instances, buying from them is redundant. For
example, my list calls for Prussian blue, but if you already have phthalo blue,
you’ve already got an excellent pigment for that color space.
It helps
to understand the instructor’s reasoning. My list is based
on paired primaries because I believe it allows the greatest range in color
space. It occasionally changes as my painting technique evolves.
Students usually show up with too much stuff because they don’t want to be caught without something they need. Most of what
they carry, they never use. I’m feeling that urge to over-pack as I assemble
the materials for Poppy Balser’s
workshop in May. Poppy, like me, is
loath to send her students on spending sprees. However, it makes no sense to
drive that distance and not be prepared.
| And I don't need a new mixing tray, either. |
I trotted out my watercolor basket expecting to have to fill in color gaps. Actually, I should KonMari
my paints. What’s in the picture, above, is probably a quarter of the tubes
in my basket. Does anyone really need five tubes of ‘opera pink’? More
importantly, what is ‘opera pink,’ anyway?
Manufacturers love labeling convenience mixes with historic
names. Consider Naples Yellow, used from the 18th to the 20th century.
The real pigment is toxic lead antimonate. Modern paints labeled “Naples
yellow” are made with a mix of modern pigments. You can make your own easily
enough with white and yellow ochre.
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| That is the only name that really matters. |
Pigments are listed on the tubes of all major paint makers
in the form of Colour Index (CI) numbers. These are in tiny lettering on the side of most
paint tubes. If the first letter is a “P,” that’s a pigment; if it’s an “N,”
that’s a lake of a
naturally-occurring substance like cochineal. The second letter tells you the
general color family. The third tells you the actual pigment used.
A glance at my tube of ‘opera pink’ tells me it’s really PR122+BV10.
The first is my old friend quinacridone magenta. Unfortunately,
the second is a dye, rhodamine B, which bleeds and isn’t lightfast at all. I
should pitch all five of those tubes.
| My brushes, on the other hand, need help. New Yorkers will recognize some as being from the cheap bin at Pearl Paint. |
If there is more than one CI number on the tube, you’re actually
buying a hue or convenience mix. Many paint manufacturers sell hues of
expensive pigments like the cadmiums and cerulean blue. They’re not
consistent across brands, and they never have the handling characteristics of
the more expensive paints they’re meant to imitate.
As with opera pink, even if the main pigment is
lightfast, its partner may not be. Almost always, using single-pigment paint
gives you the most flexibility in mixing.
There are many pigment guides on the web. Here is my favorite. Although it's meant for watercolor, pigments are consistent across all media.











